KARANGASEM REGENCY
Karangasem Regency is located
at the east end of the island of Bali, with an area of about 83.954
Ha, inhabited by a population of around 369,000. The region of Karangasem
consists of many hills with dry land, which is close to the condition
of wildlife in west Lombok. This hot and dry condition were even
more intensified, due to the eruption of the Gunung Agung in 1963.
A part of the region of Karangasem, especially the northern part,
was covered by lava from this eruption, which killed thousands of
people.
In the 1980s, this area gradually started to flourish with green
wildlife, after various grass started to grow, along with the effort
of spreading agriculture in the area. Patches of rice fields seen
on the outskirts of Karangasem has been put back according to its
original order, which was due to the effort of the Subak organizations
of the area. Since the middle of the 1990s, Tulamben, situated in
the northern side of Karangasem, which is an area most strongly
effected by the lava, gradually became an area of attraction for
tourists with its beautiful corals and tropical fish. The accommodation
facilities for tourist like hotels, restaurants, and marine recreations
have been built in this area of Tulamben.
It is not only the beauty of wildlife on the hills or inside the
ocean, which have become the objects of tourism in Karangasem. The
people from the very old times (Bali Mula) in Bali who live in Karangasem
has given local characteristic to the art and culture in the area.
Up to the present day, the people of Tengenan, Bungaya, Asak, Timbrah
and Bugbug and some other villages still carry out their traditional
customs of their ancestors, or the Bali Mula. Although their have
been process of acculturation with the spread of the Hindu religion,
it is because of their determination in not being easily influenced
with the ways of the Bali Majapahit, that the cultural heritage
of the Bali Mula is still passed on until today.
PLACES OF INTEREST
* Besakih Temple
Missionary of Danghyang Markandeya, a priest credited with introducing
the tradition of daily offerings and the concept of a single god,
is claimed to be the founder of the Besakih temple in the 8th century,
Bali's biggest and holiest temple. Divided into about 22 separate
sanctuaries, it consist over 60 temples and 200 distinct structures.
Each caste and kin group, as well as various sects, artisan guilds,
and aristocratic families, maintains its own sanctuary.
* Agung Mountain
For Balinese, Mount Agung is the geographical and religious center
of the world. Mount Agung, its highest peak. With an elevation of
3,014 meters above sea level, the Bali's highest peak can be climbed
between 5 to 8 hours. It is suggested to climb with a guide and
consider not wise to climb during religious ceremonies take place
in Besakih temple that located six kilometers below on the southwest
slope. The last big eruption of the active volcano was in 1963 that
cause big disaster.
* Amed
If you travel from Amlapura, Amed is situated before Tulamben and
also a known as a diving spot that has shipwreck located just 10
meters away from the shore. Beside diving, snorkeling or sailing,
some nice tracking can be done through the hill. For the local,
fishing and sea-salt panning is still the main income resource.
The small road along the cost that also goes to Amlapura via Seraya
Kangin and Ujung offer a fascinating view of the cost but about
20 kilometers of the road is considerably bad for small wheel vehicle.
* Tulamben Beach
A small fisherman village that now also becomes one of the best
diving spot in Bali. The big diving attraction is sunken American
Liberty ship, torpedoed by the Japanese in 1942. Diving or snorkeling
is satisfying all year around but the best time is during dry season
on July and August.
* Balina Beach
A simple, quiet resort with a nice wide black sandy beach and tame
waves. Diving excursions in a marine reserve offshore, go for night
fishing with local fishermen using lantern or hike the beautiful
hillside northwest of the area would be a highlight of your stay
here.
* Candidasa Beach
A slow and friendly beach resorts and can be a perfect base to explore
all over east Bali as most tourist amenities are available here.
Huge horrendous T-shaped concrete breakwaters were built to prevent
erosion, which becomes an essential problem since 10 years ago.
* Iseh
A serene mountain village located three-kilometer south of Selat.
The magnificent panoramic view of rice terrace and the Mount Agung
attract foreign artist to have seclusion live here including Spies
who created some of his most haunting paintings during his live
in this navel of the world.
* Lempuyang Temple
A narrow windy road has been built from the main road in Tista (make
right turn when you see sign of 'Pura Luhur Lempuyang') to first
part of this one of Bali's most important temple. An extensive construction
has been doing since few year ago. Although, there still a lot of
building still need to be finish but the white hard lime stone that
made for three main gate give an impression of a great temple. On
clear day one will see not only Gunung Agung but all the way to
the islands of Nusa Penida. The other four parts of the temple are
located in higher level of the Lempuyang mount. Except for the temple
of Telaga Mas, that still can be access by car, other parts is accessible
only by walking on about 1800 steps to the highest temple through
the forest.
On clearer mornings you'll see not only Gunung Agung but all the
way to the islands of Nusa Penida and Lembongan.
* Puri Kanginan
Surrounded by a thick redbrick wall, this big 'puri' (palace) complex
of the last raja Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut, is a blend of European,
Chinese, and Balinese architecture and interior design. Some buildings
have curios name like Bale Amsterdam and Bale London. The 'puri'
is open to guest to visit from 0800 to 1700,overnight guest is sometime
accepted.
* Sibetan
Known as the center of salak in Bali since 1952. The tourist knows
salak as snakeskin fruit that has crisp, and sweet taste, somewhere
between apple and strawberry. It has low and thorny palm. The thorny
of the palm is used as the fence of salak farm and easily can be
seen while driving around the village. Beside selling it as a fruit
to all people in Bali, now days sweet or even arak, Balinese alcoholic
beverage, can be made out of salak meat.
* Sideman
Situated within a beautiful landscape full with rice terrace and
'salak' trees, west of Amlapura or north Klungkung. Sideman known
for its 'kain songket', interwoven with designs of gold and silver
thread, as well as Balinese healers. Several accommodations nicely
nestled in some part of the village, a perfect base for mediation
base.
* Taman Ujung
It was a beautiful royal retreat for Karangasem royal family, designed
in fusion of European and Balinese architecture. The destruction
began when Japanese dismantled iron bars in Taman Ujung for weaponry
production then followed by Mount Agung eruption in 1963. Further
an earthquake in North Bali around 1976 helplessly shattered Taman
Ujung into pieces. However, the elements of beauty of the panorama
and its surrounding remain.
* Tenganan
The most conservative original pre-Hindu Balinese settlement, with
distinction of its village layout, architecture, art, and religious
rites. An ancient courtyard walls, pavilion temples, magnificent
community halls, and old high-based long houses is built in very
masculine, crude aristocratic style and is surrounded by 700-year-old
walled village. Tenganan is the only place in Indonesia that produces
double-ikat textiles known as 'Gringsing'. Lontar, the palm leaf
book, and ata basket, the woven vine that last for 100 years, are
other common product found within the houses of the people. Once
a year around May or June a ritual trance fight (makara-kare) using
a sharp prickly between pandanus leaf become an obligatory contest
amongst the young men. 'Kawin pandan' : a young man throws a flower
over a wall and must marry whoever catches it, is another distinct
practice that hold once a year.
Tengenan is one of few remaining “Bali Aga”, or original
Balinese villages in Bali. There are two versions of the history
of this villages, one originating from mythology, the other from
historical records. According to mythology, the name Tengenan Is
derived from the word “Ngatengahang” which is Balinese
for interior. In historic records it is recorded as “Tranganan”
with later developed to Tengenan. Now it is often given an additional
title, Tengenan Pegeringsingan, referring to the rare double ikat
woven cloth “Kain gerinsing” that is made there.
The characteristics of this village have changed little since megalithic
times. Houses are joined in long rows, with a wide common in between
for ceremonial long houses. The occasional grey oven, still regarded
as a holy animal, wanders the street. These oxen are the communal
property of the village, to be used for ceremonial purpose only.
The shrine in the village of Tengenan reflect its ancient ways and
pre-Hindu religious customs. There are piles of stones that date
back to megalithic times, as well as shrines similar to other temple
in Bali. Amongst the ancient relics, are many symbolizing the part
of the horse. There Is a shrine known as “Kaki Dukun”
which is in the shape of an erect horses phallus. The village people
believe that this shrine has special powers, andif a childless husband
and wife pray at this shrine they will be blessed with offspring.
A stones monolith known as “Batu Taikik” is considered
to be the center of a horses stomach or its droppings.
Ceremonies are conducted here for prosperity and plentiful crops.
“Rambut Pule” is another shrine made from a pile of
stones that is considered to contain the hair of a horse. Another
large monolith is regarded to symbolize the tight of horse. An esoteric
ceremony is conducted around this shrine known as “Truna Nyoman”.
Yet another strange shrine known as “Batu Jaran” is
considered to be the eye of the horse.
A strange tale lies behind all of this symbolism. According to mythology
the Raja of Bedahulu once lost one of his finest horses.
He sent out people all over the island to search for it. Finally
it was found dead, by a man known as Ki Patih Tunjung Biru. Because
of his faithfulness the Raja promised to give his servant all the
land, as far one could still smell the corpse of the dead horse.
Being a far and wide, so at the time of measuring the land he an
covered extensive area. This is the tale of how the people of Tengenan
obtained such a large area of fertile land, which to this day still
belongs to the village.
A number of fascinating ceremionies are held in the village of Tengenan
at different times of the year. The most famous of these is the
“Mekare-kare” or “Perang Pandan” that takes
place in the 5th month according to the Balinese calendar. Fights
are held between the youths of the village using the barbed pandan
leaves as weapons.
The ancient Gamelan “Selonding” instrument accompany
the battle and crowds of people gather in full ceremonial dress
to watch the gladiators. This ceremony is thought of as similar
to the “tabuh Rah” cock fighting tradition which has
the purpose of shedding blood on ceremonial soil to appeare the
evil spirits.
* Tirta Gangga
Tirta Gangga,literately mean Water of the Gangges, is another retreat
water palace built by last raja of Karangasem, in 1947. It is a
well-maintained pool complex that fed by a sacred water spring emerging
from the hill in the west-side of the palace. A beautiful rice terrace
can be seen form the highland just a bit north of the object.
* Bukit Putung
Putung is a particulary scenic spot at Duda, Selat, Karangasem.
The word “Putung” take its meaning from “putus”
or “at the end”, such as an isolated spot, at the end
of the road, and can also be used to describe a childless marriage.
Not only the Balinese have a special feeling about Putung. Before
Putung become popular as a scenic spot there was an Italian man
named Kristianto who used to come there for meditation. According
to the local people he often spoke of a special golden radiance
which he had seen in this place. After several years of meditation
this man is said to name found an object known as the “sampian
emas”, a special ingredient in offerings used for Hindu religious
ceremonies. The place where he found this object is now thought
of as a holy place by the local people. Later this foreigner moved
to the village at Manggis, where he met a Balinese girl, fell in
love with her and stayed on there.
In 1975 at the initiative of the head of district of selat, and
the Regent of Karangasem Regency, Anak Agung Gede Karang, Putung
was made into a place for recreation, and simple refreshment. Many
tourist now come to Putung to enjoy the panoramic view. From the
hills stretch valleys of emerald rice-fields, with the sparkling
sea in the distance, and the little island of Gili Tepekong off
the coast. At the rear Mount Agung towers, with its foothills covered
in gardens and fertile fields.
Visitors to this area feel close to nature and God. Only 20 Km from
Amlapura and 68 Km from Denpasar, Putung is about 700 m above sea
level, and the weather there is fresh and cool, making it the ideal
resting spot on a days outing.
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